Frequently Asked Questions
Q. Automatic Hinged Door Seal isn’t closing the gap – Do I need another cam?
A. Seals under 920mm should not require second cam. Check if seal is the correct distance off floor when door is open. Check if floor surface is level and free of hollows. The cam pressure on the seal should only be light, if correctly set up.
Q. How do I remove old adhesive residue?
A. Carefully heat residue with hair dryer to soften the adhesive, then scrape with plastic blade. Use eucalyptus oil or citrus cleaner to clean the remainder, after carefully testing that any paint underneath will not be damaged. Test cleaner in a non-critical area.
Q. I am using Hook and Loop: Which product gives the greatest strength?
A. Read the advice on the packet. Some H&L’s are heavier duty than others. Strength is proportional to area of H&L used. Double the area and the load bearing will roughly double. Do not use on “hard-to-bond” surfaces. Be careful using in direct sunlight where the heat will build up and may soften the adhesive. Always be conservative with weight suspended.
Q. How do I select the correct door seal for my situation?
A. On each door seal packet there is a table of parts and the functions offered. Check the functions you require to find a suitable seal. If it does not resist rain, then it is not for an outside door.
Q. What compression is required for a sealing strip to provide a reasonable seal on a door or window?
A. The seal should be compressed 10 to 30%. If there is no gap the seal will be crushed and may prevent the window (door) from closing properly.
Q. Will using weather seals reduce my energy consumption?
A. Yes, fitting seals to doors and windows can save up to 25% of energy use, depending on climate, wind and fitment quality of doors and windows. This applies to both heating and cooling energy.